Installing a water pipe in a toilet may sound like a difficult task, but it’s quite straightforward. If you want to install a water pipe in a toilet, the first step is to decide where to connect it.
If you would like to know, practically, how to install the water supply pipe in the toilet, this article explains, step by step, how to do it properly on-site.
Step-by-Step Practical Installation of the Water Supply Pipe in Toilets
1- Open an approved toilet detail shop drawing.
This drawing should be accompanied by the approved locations of mechanical pipe sleeves for both the A/C indoor unit refrigeration tubes/pipes and sanitary fixture ventilation.
2- Installation of pipes should be done after the block work inside the toilet.
3- Locate the pipe locations in the wall and mark with the line that corresponds to the total area, and this is to bury the pipe in the wall.
4- Use a block cutter, or you can use a portable grinder to cut a side of the block continuously along the line that has been marked. Absolute care should be taken to avoid cutting or damaging the pre-installed pipe sleeves of fixture vents and A/C refrigeration pipes/tubes.
Use a sharp-pointed steel rod and other proper chipping tools to chip the block to the required thickness to fix the water pipes.
5- Use approved pipes, pipe fittings, and joining compounds.
A. Water Supply Pipe Installation by solvent cement joints:
A-1. Select and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations, which specify the types of solvent cement for conditions such as temperatures over 100ºF (38ºC), humidity over 60%, or schedule 80 fittings.
A-2. But before applying the cement to the pipes, make sure to use a pipe cleaner to remove any dust from the inner and outer surfaces of the pipes and their fittings.
A-3. Proper handling of solvent cement should be strictly followed to maintain effectiveness.
A-4. Keep the solvent cement closed and be in the shade when not in use. When solvent cement becomes thicker, make sure to THROW IT AWAY, as the Solvent cement shall not be thinned.
B. Water Supply Pipe Installation by pipe joining:
b-1. Cut the pipe square with a hand saw used for plastic.
b-2. Ream and chamfer the pipe ( to eliminate sharp edges, beads, and all burrs).
b-3. Clean all dirt, plus moisture and grease from the pipe and fitting socket. Use a clean and dry rag.
b-4. Check the dry fit of the pipe in the fitting. The pipe should enter the fitting socket at 1/3 to 3/4 of the socket’s depth.
b-5. Soften the inside of the socket surface by applying an aggressive primer.
b-6. Soften the pipe’s mating surface to the depth of the socket by applying a liberal coat of the (aggressive primer). Be sure the entire surface is softened.
b-7. Again, coat the inside of the socket surface with the (aggressive) primer. Then, without delay, make sure to apply solvent cement liberally outside the pipe. Use more than enough to fill any gaps.
b-8. Apply a light coat of PVC cement inside the socket using straight outward strokes (to keep excess solvent in the socket).
This is also to prevent solvent cement damage to the pipe. For loose fits, apply a second coat of solvent cement.
b-9. While both the outside surface of the pipe and the inside socket surface are soft and wet with solvent cement, forcefully bottom the pipe in the socket, giving the pipe a one-quarter turn, if possible. The pipe must go to the bottom of the socket.
b-10. Hold the joint together until tight.
b-11. Wipe excess cement from the pipe. A properly made joint will normally show a bead around its entire perimeter. Any found gaps may indicate insufficient cement or the use of light-bodied cement on larger diameters where heavy-bodied cement should have been used.
b-12. Do not disturb joints for the following periods:
b-12-1. 30mins minimum @ 60°F to 100°F (16°C to 38°C).
b-12-2. One hour minimum @ 40°F to 60°F (4°C to16°C).
b-12-3. 2 hours minimum @ 20°F to 40°F (-7°C to 4°C).
b-12-4. 4 hours minimum @ 0°F to 20°F (-18°C to -7°C).
Handle the newly assembled joints carefully during these periods. If you find gaps (step 11) or loose fits are encountered in the system, double these periods.
b-13. Make sure the system is not pressurized until the joints have cured for at least the time recommended by the manufacturer.
C. Water Supply Pipe Installation For connection with threads (i.e., valve to pipes or fittings and vice-versa)
c-1. Secure the threaded valves or fittings to the joint so that the threads are not worn out, and the rotation to fix is reversed from the other.
c-2. Use approved fittings to join valves to threaded metal valves.
c-2. Wrap the threaded portion with the approved tape (Teflon tape) in the reverse direction of the tightening. Align threads at the point of assembly.
c-3. Tighten joints with a wrench. Apply the wrench to the valve end and secure it to the PVC pipes or fittings. Do not overtighten the joints.
Important Notes during water supply pipe installation:
1- For pipes passing the vertical columns, allowable chipping is up to two(2) centimeters on the sides of the column. Chipping more than 2cm is not allowed.
2- For pipes passing through the wall, install sleeves of a size larger than the pipes serving it. Seal the annular space between the sleeve and the pipe with silicone sealant.
3- Install the pipes at the designated height and location on the wall and on the floor.
4- Align the pipes horizontally and vertically without strain. Avoid pipe bending or sagging.
5- Check the pipes securely and firmly fix their location before leak testing.
6- Leak test the pipes and prove tight under a water pressure not less than 1½ times its working pressure under which the pipe is to be used. Leak test the pipes for four (4) hours. Do not test the pipes without the presence of an inspection Engineer.
7- After the approval of the inspection Engineer, cover the pipes with cement plaster.
(Free Video) Your Complete Guide to Plumbing Works inside the Toilet from A to Z
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