Water Supply Pipe Installation

If you would like to know practically the water supply pipe installations in the toilet, In this article, you will know step by step how to install it properly on-site.

Step by Step Practical Installation of the Water supply Pipe installation in Toilets

1- Open an approved toilet detail shop drawing. This drawing should be accompanied by the approved location of mechanical pipe sleeves for both A/C indoor unit refrigeration tubes/pipes and sanitary fixtures ventilation.

2- Installation of pipes should be done after the block work inside the toilet.

3- Locate the pipe locations in the wall and mark with the line that corresponds to the total area, and this is to bury the pipe in the wall.  

4- Use a block cutter, or you can use a portable grinder to cut a side of the block continuously along the line that had been marked. Absolute care should be done to cut or damage the pre-installed pipe sleeves of fixture vents and A/C refrigeration pipes/tubes.

Block wall chaser

Angle Grinder (7 inches)

By using a sharp-pointed steel rod and other proper chipping tools, chip the block side to the thickness required to fixed the water pipes.

5- Use approved pipes, pipe fittings, and joining compound.

A. Water Supply Pipe Installation by solvent cement joints:

A-1. Select and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations, which tell you the types of the solvent cement for such conditions as temperature over 100ºF (38ºC), humidity over 60%, or schedule 80 fittings.

A-2. But before applying the cement to the pipes, make sure to use the pipe cleaner to clean the inner and outer services of the pipe and its fitting from any dust.

A-3. Proper handling of solvent cement should be strictly done to maintain effectiveness.

A-4. Keep solvent cement closed and be in the shade when not in use. When solvent cement becomes thicker, make sure to THROW IT AWAY as the Solvent cement shall not be thinned.

B. Water Supply Pipe Installation by pipe joining:

b-1. Cut pipe square with a hand saw used for plastic.

b-2. Ream and chamfer the pipe ( to eliminate sharp edges, and beads, and all burrs).

b-3. Clean all dirt, plus moisture and grease from pipe and fitting socket. Use a clean and dry rag.

b-4. Check dry fit of pipe in the fitting. The pipe should enter the fitting socket from 1/3 to 3/4 depth of the socket.

b-5. Soften inside the socket surface by applying an aggressive primer.

b-6. Soften the pipe’s mating surface to the depth of the socket by applying a liberal coat of the (aggressive primer). Be sure the entire surface is softened.

b-7. Again coat inside the socket surface with the (aggressive) primer. Then make sure without delay, apply solvent cement liberally to outside the pipe. Use more than enough to make sure to fill any gaps.

b-8. Apply a light coat of PVC cement to inside the socket using inside straight outward strokes (to keep excess solvent of the socket). 

This is also to prevent solvent cement damage to the pipe. For loose fits, apply a second coat to solvent cement.

b-9. While both the outside surface of the pipe and the inside socket surface are soft, wet with solvent cement, forcefully bottom the pipe in the socket, giving the pipe a one-quarter turn, if possible. The pipe must go to the end bottom of the socket.

b-10. Hold the joint together until tight.

b-11. Wipe excess cement from the pipe. A properly made joint will normally show a bead around its entire perimeter. Any found gaps may indicate insufficient cement or the use of light-bodied cement on larger diameters where heavy-bodied cement should have been used.

b-12. Do not disturb joint for the following periods:

   b-12-1. 30mins minimum @ 60°F to 100°F (16°C to 38°C).

   b-12-2. One hour minimum @ 40°F to 60°F (4°C to16°C).

  b-12-3. 2 hours minimum @ 20°F to 40°F (-7°C to 4°C).

   b-12-4. 4 hours minimum @ 0°F to 20°F (-18°C to -7°C).

Handle the newly assembled joints in a careful way during these periods. If you find gaps (step 11) or loose fits are encountered in the system, double these periods. 

  b-13. Make sure the system shall not be pressurized until the joints have cured at least as long as recommended by the manufacturer.

C. Water Supply Pipe Installation For connection with threads (i.e., valve to pipes or fittings and vice-versa)

c-1. Secure the threaded valves or fittings to the joint is good that the threads are not worn out and the rotation to fix is reverse with the other.

c-2. Use approved fittings to join valves to threaded metal valves.

c-2. Wrap the threaded portion with the approved tape (Teflon tape) in the reverse direction of the tightening. Align threads at point of assembly.  

c-3. Tighten joints with a wrench. Apply wrench to valve end and strap wrench to PVC pipes or fittings. Do not overtighten the joints.

Important Notes during water supply pipe installation:

1- For pipes passing the vertical columns, allowable chipping is up to two(2) centimeters on the sides of the column. Chipping more than 2cm is not allowed.

2- For pipes passing through the wall, install sleeves of a size larger than the pipes serving it. Seal annular space between sleeve and pipe using silicon sealant.

 3- Install the pipes at the designated height and location on the wall and on the floor.

4- Align the pipes horizontally and vertically without strain. Avoid pipe bending or sagging.

5- Check the pipes securely and firmly fix their location before leak testing.

6- Leak test the pipes and proved tight under a water pressure not less than 1½ its working pressure under which the pipe is to be used. Leak test the pipes for four (4) hours. Do not test the pipes without the presence of an inspection Engineer.

7- After the approval of the inspection Engineer, cover the pipes with cement plaster.

(Free Video) Your Complete Guide of Plumbing Works inside Toilet from A to Z

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